Day 22 – Silver Lake, Pizza, and Beer

Woke up to the sounds of birds and a swiftly running creek.   That was the cool part.   The not-so-cool part was that the rain fly on my tent was soaked.  So was my pack which I left outside this time.    I learned that condensation next to flowing water can be nasty.  

I packed the dry stuff and hung the rest all over my pack to dry.   Fireball was laying on the ground in his bag with his head covered.   He will be a soggy character when he gets up.  

I then ran around in circles until I found the trail.  2 miles to the hot springs!

Following the Creek
Save the Toads!!!!!!

Ok, so I got to the hot springs, but didn’t take any pics.  Here’s the deal.   There are a bunch of natural and man made pools with flowing hot water in them.   That was neat.   There was a few hikers and a bunch of locals camped around them with all their trash, that wasn’t.   I was thinking of jumping into a large unoccupied one when some old, hairy, naked dude plunged in.   He wanted to talk about….well I’m not sure.  Saw more of his flock heading down….hmm.  

I left.   Found out from some French folks later that they found a good hidden spot with just hikers.  Just as well, I think I’d have lost a half day if I’d stayed on anyway.

Trail was still giving me the love. 

Love these Bridge Builders

Lot of Work to Build this section of trail

Hooked up with Sitting Rock (17 yr old) and her Mom.   I’ve run into them a few times.   They offered to let me pass, but instead I stayed with them and visited for a while.  They are from Oregon and were telling me about all the berries we’ll see up there in August.  Sounds awesome.   Her Mom didn’t think much of the crowd at the hot springs either, heh.

Sitting Rock
Me on the Rainbow Bridge (Mile 310)

Sitting Rock sat down, well, on a rock after the bridge and didn’t seem to be interested in moving.   I headed off on my own again, intermittently hiking with a Swiss/German gal (Ladyback) who had a printed map hanging from her belt, a GPS, and a Phone with a mapping app running.   I don’t think she is getting lost.

Now I must diverge for a moment.   Couple of days ago, I realized that I don’t really need to do much planning as long as I can find a German around.   They always seem to have a rational destination in mind, know where the next reliable water is, and any obstacles coming up.   Haven’t done a lick of planning since.   🙂

Anyway, Ladyback kept me from getting lost as the deep creek spilled out into the Mohave Damn.  

Clearly I was getting close to a road, the graffiti started appearing on all the flat surfaces.   I suppose it is a good thing that these clowns are too lazy to hike very far.  

Now this brings me to a thought.   If the Native Americans did cave paintings and we preserve them as important relics, maybe we have that all wrong.   Perhaps they were just a bunch of teenagers running around with berry juice pissing off the elders?   

Important Cave Drawings from the 20th Century?

The ground was flattening out, here is a last look up the valley we walked through.

Leaving Deep Creek
Mohave Dam
Looking back on the Decent

Ladyback stayed there to wait for her friends and I carried on to have lunch with Fire Ranger in some wetlands below the dam.   Got the low-down on how he earned his trail name.   Fire Ranger is a newly graduated Civil engineer from Fresno.  Apparently in Idylwild, a group of super stoned folks built a huge fire in the campgrounds.   Fire Ranger got things back under control, filled up a gallon jug of water, and instructed folks on the proper way to put the fire out.   He said later that he kicked apart some recently made fire rings on the trail.   Seems the name fits.

Walked another mile and hit some welcome trail magic from Chiapet.   She did the PCT last year and was traveling North to start a season firefighting job.  She was handing out PBR’s.  Got a pic of the Frenchies + Fire Walker enjoying America’s finest beverage. 

The French Enjoying a can of America

I don’t know why, but PBR keeps showing up on the trail.   I’ve yet to figure out how it became the official beer of the PCT, though cost seems to be the driving factor for any consumable on the trail.

Next segment was back to the usual high-desert ridge walking with a twist.   The whole place burned down.   There were a ton of wild flowers, which was nice.   Wasn’t wearing ear buds, so I could hear a constant hum of billions of bees doing their bee thing.  

The lovely desert charcoal

  

This snow capped mountain is the next destination.   I think it is Baden-Powell. 

I’ll get there eventually

Wasn’t sure what this dam was for, found out later it is silver lake’s dam.   I think they are flowing Deep Creek (6+ miles back) through a huge underground pipe to fill this reservoir.   There is a hydro power station near here.  Big engineering project.  Love it.  

Pile of Rocks
Hip Chilling on the Bridge

 Hit a couple of climbs then dropped into Silver lake at about mile 324 ish.   Walked the ridge line around the lake for a few miles.    This lake is huge. 

 

 

 

Looking over the lake toward the dam

Saw a bunch of small sandy beaches with hikers in/out of the water.    The walk seemed to go on forever.   The trail here is pretty overgrown.   Some bits I just put my head down and crashed through all the oats, wetland grass, and bushes. 

Big Party down there

I arrived at Cleghorn Campground to be reunited with a bunch of past hiker buddies.   Blue, Jonathan and Drew seemed to be deep into their second 6 pack of IPA’s.  Turns out you can order pizza and they’ll pick up some beer as well.  

Vipr, Fun Dip, Josh, Wing It, and I all went in for a couple large pizzas.   I ordered a 6 of modelo and a 6 of the IPA.   Instead we got the modelos and a 12 of lame-ass PBR again.   I’ll never escape that stuff apparently.  

Anyway, lots of drinking ensued.  The Pizza guy kept showing up with more deliveries + carrying around a cold order for some hikers he couldn’t find.   It was funny.  He said he was carrying those pies for over an hour.

As it was getting dark, we were informed that could not camp in the picnic area.   Guess with mothers day coming up on Sunday, nobody wanted a bunch of hung-over smelly hikers spoiling the family fun.  

Folks were going off in all directions trying to find a hiding place to camp.   I finally just put on my headlamp and started night hiking.    Did another 3 miles before finding a flat spot on a ridgeline to camp at 11 or so.  Somewhere around mile 330.  Too tired to setup tent, just flopped on the ground with my pad and bag.   The moon was bugging me that night, it was crazy bright.  

With the night hike I did almost 25 miles that day.   Whew.   McDonalds comes next 🙂        

Day 21 – Following Deep Creek

Woke and packed up early. Was one of the first ones out, which means I got passed a lot today by this bubble of hikers. The tortise wins the race, right?

The tentative goal today was to make the hot springs at 307.9. That is a 22 mile day.

Really good scenery here, which my photos will not do justice. The first few miles followed Holcomb creek.

Then up and over a couple ridges

Finally down to the head waters of Deep Creek.

Deep Creek

Had some lunch at a primitive campsite.   It had a typically uninformative map of the place. 

Yes I am…..but this map isn’t helping

Lots of blow downs on the trail. Quit a few are dead from previous fires.

Someone needs to pack a chainsaw

Got to a huge foot bridge over deep creek at mile 298.5. Had some lunch with a bunch of folks who were swimming, relaxing. That is Fun Dip waving from the bridge.

Fun Dip
Lounging at the Beach

When I crossed the bridge I saw this.

Let me get back to you on that

According to the paper on tied to the tree, the guy planned to propose to his GF on Saturday (tomorrow). Hope nobody rearranges the message.

The trail followed Deep Creek from here. around 300, there was another big ass snake laying on the trail. I stopped and poked him until he got off the trail to the left, but the damn thing got himself boxed in a shear wall 6 inches from the foot path. To the right was a shear drop. A trapped animal is dangerous so I was trying to coax him out when Fire Ranger comes bounding down the trail and tries to pass me, almost stepping on the snake.  I’m yelling “Snake!!!!” and he almost jumps down the drop, scares the shit out of the snake and me. Good news is the snake ran off and everyone survived.  Man….

Video of Deep Creek Section

Really interesting hike along the canyon walls following the creek. Since we are not supposed to camp at the hot springs and it was getting late, I called it about mile 306 and setup with some german and french folks in a flat spot next to a big tributary. the running water. Washed the socks, feet and did a little rock hopping.

Almost pitched the tent on top of a yellow jacket nest (they live in the ground). I’m sure that if I started driving stakes there, it would have been a cloud of pain. That was a close one.

Fireball cowboy camped right next to me. He was using a liquid fuel stove, which always freaks me out a little. Fortunately no explosions, just a lot of flame and soot. We had a good chat and sacked out.

Did a 20 today. This time my left ankle is bothering me. It is getting worked by the concave trail (the ridge was on the left side for most of the hike).  I believe my condition is “anklus hurtitus a lot-us” Popping some extra ibuprofen for tonight.

Hot springs on the agenda for tomorrow morning!

Day 20 – Downhill from Big Bear

One of the guys staying at the Natures Inn agreed to give me a lift back to the trail at hwy 18. Greg said early was good, I suggested 6, he agreed, and of course he was late getting up. Finally got up there around 7 ish. Big thanks to Greg for the lift.

There was a single person tent setup next to the trail head. Spoke with a guy packing up and said it was a gal he dropped last night. He hiked the trail in ’14 and was Angeling for her. They were late getting there so he just camped it and was heading home.

Hit the trail and started climbing. It was a great morning. Alice says she wants more scenery photos, so here it goes.

Looking Northwest Toward Big Bear
First Look at The Meadow-That-Lasts-Forever

Most of the day was a pleasant walk through pine trees and a good, soft trail of pine needs on a loam trail. Lot of shade

Girl in the tent apparently woke up, packed, then passed me on the trail. She didn’t say much, seemed to want to get some miles asap. Soon after she passed me, I caught up. She was posting a written message on the trail stating “Rattlesnake ahead, be careful”. Thought that was cute. Asked her if she was my snake bait for the day? That got a frown. She blew past me and didn’t see her till the evening.

Around 11 I found a cool lookout on a rocky outcrop. Time for some lunch of hot spuds and my newest innovation of spinkled bacon bits. Yum.

Lunch Time
View from my Table

Take note of the alpine meadow in the view. Little did I know that I’d spend the next 4+ hours walking around that thing.

While enjoying my taters Wing It showed up! Hadn’t seen him since Warner Springs. We spent a little time catching up. Neither he nor I have seen any other Indians or Pakistanis on the trail. We agreed we need to fix that.  Had a good laugh about his hair/beard combination. I think he’s becoming wiser with every inch it grows. He should be a shaman in a couple months. I shot a promotional picture

PCT’s Sole Indian Hiker

The views kept coming. Here are a couple of Big Bear lake. You can see the two ski hills of bear mountain (left) and snow summit (right). In the background is San Gorgino which is 11.5k feet. According to a local I chatted with, it is the tallest peak in southern cal.

Only Skis that work here have wheels
Big Bear Lake Marina

More walking on nice trail. This section is well maintained.   I think it might even be Alice-able.  Have to bring her up here sometime. 

It was about then that I realized I was walking around the meadow I glimpsed at the beginning and stared at during lunch. 

This Meadow Again?

2:00, the damn thing is still there

Yup, Still there

3:00, finally I’m through it.

Bye Endless Meadow

The remaining 1.5 hours was through a huge burned area. Only took a couple of pics. This used to be densely forested….now it is a gloomy barren spectacle.

Last Year’s Firewood

I caught up with Wing again during the last segment and we chatted technology for a while. Nice diversion. We landed at Holcomb creek (mile 285.9) in a nice open meadow. Good primitive camping here.

Found snake bait girl with a dude named Toe Jam (Jonathon, since he’s not sure if this is real trail name). Turns out Jonathon is from Evansville, IN, fairly close to where I grew up and went to college. Snake bait’s trail name is Blue and she was a little more talkative. She’s a nurse from Michigan who is section hiking a 100 miles this year.

While we were sitting there, a load of people started turning up. Fire Ranger, Gordan (Australian on his second attempt), Hip, Happy Times (a permanently smiling hippy dude), Vipr and her sister Fun Dip from Seattle, and others. A large group of Germans turned up as well Felix who I hiked with a bit earlier, Fireball (carries a flask of cinnamin whiskey), a brother sister pair, and others. Most of these folks I’d seen and hiked with before. It was quite the reunion.  Should have got a group photo….

Reunion Meadow

 

Fireball had a raging fire going in their camp, so Jonathon and I left the Americans and headed over. It was a lot of fun. The Germans were cooking marsh mellows and passing around the whiskey. In another hour all the camps combined around the fire. Must have been 17+ people there.

Did a 17 miler today. The old man (me) needed some zz’s so I took off early. They were still going at it when I crashed at 9.

Day 18, 19 – Recovery and Resupply

 I have my Linux laptop from my bounce box and spent a bunch of time updating this site.    It is nice to have a decent computer rather than my hokey phone / kindle combo.   One of the problems that comes with this is that I have to deal with the post office.

First day was laundry, food, drying, and posting.   I’m in a crappy spot for a hiker b/c businesses are all scattered around this area.   Probably should have stayed at the hostel.   Snagged some leftovers from a hiker box and bought various cravings.   Katie S. posted on facebook that I don’t have enough protein in my diet, so I added a Slim Jim 🙂

Zoom in to find the protein

 

Today (as I’m writing this) is finding some fuel for my stove and bouncing my laptop ahead.  I feeling I need one more recovery day on the muscles.   Was chatting with Joe (brother-in-law / PCT hiker wannabe) and mentioned that my plan is to get sick of being here.   As of this morning I think I have succeeded.   

Found a dude to drive me around today and drop me on the trail tomorrow at 6am.    Another 100 miler to Wrightwood and water is going to be a little hard to find.   Back to packing 4+ liters again.      

 

Day 17 – Big Bear, Baby

It was freaking cold last night.   We were camped at 7.6k feet, but the temps still dropped to 20 or maybe lower.   My tent was setup on 2 inches of snow and my inflatable pad was not giving me the insulation love I expected.

I had read a few months ago about a guy who brought 2 pads into the sierras so he could insulate on cold days.   As an afterthought, I brought a second pad thinking I’d just use it for laying around on lunch and ditch it at some point.   Well, that second pad sure saved the night for me.   My bag was definitely at its limits that night.  

When I rolled out of the tent, one of the guys had started a fire.   It was a blessing.   All of us were huddled around it.   We’d warm up, run to break up our tents, run back to warm up again.   Kind of comical.  

I couldn’t find Phd and I was sick of carrying his stuff.  Bottom said to chuck it in the fire.  Phd is kind of a douche anyway so why not?   It made a nice burst of flame.   Some of the folks were frowning at me.    Probably LNT ‘ers…but hey… there was no trace left after the burn.  

Hooked up with Zack, Austin, and Dan for the 10 miles to Hwy 18 where we hoped to get a ride.   Zack and Austin hiked my speed.   Dan was much faster, but his phone and GPS batteries were dead, so he needed us.  

Along the way, Zack starts going on and on about a Sizzler in Big Bear.   He is building this thing up like heaven on earth.   Unlimited salad bar, gigantic steaks, multi-trip deserts.   Pretty soon that was all we could think about.  

We made hwy 18 at 12 and stood around for 20 minutes trying to thumb a ride.    Plenty of cars go by, but no love.   Zack decides to get on the other side of road and do some dancing.      That didn’t work either.   Probably the opposite on hindsight.

Zack’s Hitching Party

Finally some creepy dude stops and offers a ride.   Only 3 would fit and Dan offered to stay, but I took the bullet instead.   We agreed to meet at Sizzler.    Turns out I got the W on this one, as my ride shortly thereafter took me to the parking lot ahead of them.   

Sizzler was INCREDIBLE.   It is hard to describe the joy we found there.   Sitting in a corner charging our stuff and grazing for 2 hours.  

I was the first to bail because I needed to get to the post office.   It was supposed to be .4 miles away.  Walked there and it had moved to shopping center.   Walked to the shopping center, stood in a long line only to find that the one I needed was 3 miles away.   Or maybe the package went to Big Bear LAKE instead of Big Bear CITY in which case it is 2 miles in the opposite direction.   

What a bummer.    Well, turns out some super nice lady in line offered to give me a ride to BOTH !    She drove me around for an hour with her two teenage boys and a dog in the back who all totally hated me by the end of the trip.  

Went to the first office, stood in line for 10 minutes…no package.   Next one, took 15 minutes.   The old postal dude shuffles around back for who knows how long and finally returns with my unicorn wrapped laptop!  This lady doesnt stop there.   She actually drives me to an inn and makes sure I get a room.  Her boys were shooting lasers at me from the back seat.

Amy Rocks!

Did a 10 miles, ate a Sizzler extravaganza, had a free chauffeur, and got a room with a hot tub for $40/night (PCT Special).   All is good.  Zero tomorrow.