All posts by John Baum

7/19 2097-2112

Up at 5am, showered, then jumped on the Oregon Breeze bus and did the 2.5 hour ride to Government Camp. I asked the bus dude if he’d drop me early at Frog Lake, but that was a no-go. Hey, he just drives the bus man.

After that drop off, I got some breakfast at a local restaurant then waited another 2 hours for the shuttle that takes me uphill to Timberline Lodge. Got there at 12 and packed my resupply box.  There is supposed to be an amazing buffet here, but time’s awasting. Got on the trail at 1.

As a little side note, I think Timberline was the location where the Shining was shot back in the day. I was in a hurry and did not get a frontal shot of the place.

Bye Timberline

Only thing I knew to expect today was that I’d be doing a lot of downhill. The trail picks up at 6k on the side of Mount Hood, then follows the western side going up and down through gorges. Ton of day hikers out here today. Passed a few overnight backpackers on various climbs today. Surprised how fast I’m moving now.

Mt Hood

I did a little figuring when I was coming down. This picture shows where I end up at the bottom of the big downhill. If you look at that second escarpment at the center, that was where I eventually ended up near Ramona falls.

A little farther downhill

When I got to the river valley and climbed over a bunch of blowdowns, the next biggie was the Sandy river crossing. I ran into a couple trail crew folks, one of whom pointed me to a ford point. She says “Shouldn’t be too deep” so I just jumped in and started wading. It wasn’t bad, except the last bit where the water got up to my crotch. The flow was really strong here, but I polled my way through it and got to the other side. Took a quick picture of some other folks crossing behind me. On hindsight, should have taken a better one.

The Crossing

After that it was more down to the tentsites at Ramona falls. There must be an easy access from a nearby trail head, because all the sites had at leat one person in it with a pile of car camping type gear. Saw kids porting in all kinds of stuff like folding chairs, big bottles of propane, and one kid with a coleman camp stove. Looks like quite a party was getting provisioned.

There was still some light left and I wanted to get the next climb out of the way. So back up from 3k to around 4.5k. Made the camp site by 7, but unfortunately someone(s) beat me to it. There are some huge blowdowns in this area which is in a saddle at the top of the ridge. Most of the other sites were wrecked. Had to put another 30 minutes into brush clearing and got a flat spot to setup. Did a 15 miles on a half day. Pretty happy with that.

7/18 Zero’d

Spent most of the day doing laundry and fixing stuff. My hose and bladder system is an endless source of frustration. I have to rethink that setup someday. The Salty hat has received a new fix in the form of a sock cut to the right lenght and taped inside. I want this hat to make it to Canada in some form.

I finally found some proper DEET. Bought two bottles. The Botanical’s are going into the trash. So happy to be stocked with some real chemical vengeance !

Bringing the Pain

The hiker hunger has definitely kicked in. I’m eating everything in sight!. Getting a bus ride back to the trail on Tuesday. Should be restarting around 2097.

Meanwhile, Stormtrooper has been texting me. He will arrive at Shelter cove tomorrow (1906). That kid is going to catch me soon.

7/17 Mile 1999 – 2001

 

In the morning I quickly packed up and headed up trail to the highway at Santiam Pass. Along the way, I ran into Twig, a through hiker from Minnesota. We hiked together until the highway, chatting about our hitching luck. Apparently he has the same luck as me. Nobody wants to pick up the old smelly guys :).

When we got there, we repositioned about a mile up the road so folks would have a pull-over spot and stuck our thumbs out….for like 30 minutes. At least a couple hundred cars passed us before finally a dude stopped and picked us up. He had through-hiked in 2018. We had a good chat into town.

I asked him to drop me off in the sketchy area of town for the cheap motels. Found one, not cheap, but plenty sketchy, and made myself comfortable. Walked around bend a bit. This inner tube floating down the river thing looks fun!

The Life

7/16 Mile 1975-1999

 

When I woke up this morning, I noticed the girls-gone-hiking pair were setup near me. They must have rolled in late last night, which is pretty impressive mileage. Didn’t chat with them, just packed and left. Walking over a bunch of lava rock for a couple miles. This stuff is harsh, but anything is better than more green tunnel.

Break a Leg…or Ankle

Dropped into a little meadow below the lava rocks, turned a corner, and found my buddy Gnocci with his kid in a perfect lounge spot next to the water. We chatted for a bit. Looks like they will be going to Timberline on the same route as me. Gnocci doesn’t seem to be in a big hurry. He seems to be enjoying time with his son.

Chilling

Passed by another exclusion area at Scott’s lake. Not sure what this is all about. There must only be a few Oasis up here between the lava fields. Passed some other local hikers who were going on about the complexity of figuring out what permits they needed to hike through the limited use area, where they could camp, etc. I feel their pain. The Forest Service does not make this very easy.

Oregon is Infringing on my PCT Privileges !
Didn’t Want to Stop Here Anyway

I could see I was approaching the lava fields the Old Timer told me about. He said “Better hike that in the morning, because there is no shade and those black rocks hold the heat.” Well I timed it perfectly, hitting the fields at high-noon. Heh.

Check out this picture

If you zoom in on the mountain, you can see lava poo all over the mountain speckled with tree lined spots.  These are areas that have been broken down over the millineum to host a decent ecosystem. In the lava fields, the only thing living is a bunch of moss and the occasional sad little bush/tree. My hike through the lava fields took me down into a couple of forested areas similar to the pic above.

I took a bunch of pictures of the lava fields, but none really capture the scale. It was huge. There is something eerie about standing in a middle of this gigantic dead rocky wasteland with the wind blowing at 20 mph+. I suppose Mars might be a little like this.

Earth Poo
More Poo

Walking on this stuff is sketchy. The whole trail is composed of fist sized pumice just waiting to roll your ankle. Hiking poles are pretty much useless, so it 100% concentration trying to hop across the service without mistep. Falling in this stuff would be ugly. The stuff is so abrasive, I could not even find a comfortable place to sit down. It is like sitting on 60 grit sandpaper wrapped around every rock.

Finally left the lava rocks behind to re-enter yet another burned forest. Man half of the trail in Oregon seems to have been burned up over the last 5 to 7 years.

Done with the Lava
Torching Oregon, One Forest at a Time

Last time I saw water was Scott’s lake, so I took the by-pass and hiked into the Big Lake Youth Camp to fill up. In years past, they have been a wonderful host for hikers. I believe they have a building setup specifically for hikers to stay in. Well this year is a different story. I don’t know if it is the Covid thing or something else. I was met over and over again by smiling, yet firm, camp counselors asking if I was a PCT hiker and, if so, I should go to the water spigot next to the horse corral. Get your water and get out. On my way out, two more counselors checked up on me. Ok, folks, I’m leaving.

Get Your Water and Leave!

I walked another couple miles to the last camp site before the highway and setup next to a small lake. Mosquitoes were bad here, but fortunately the wind was blowing pretty hard. Unfortunately, the wind is also blowing all these dead trees around. Spent a few hours worried about that in my tent then fell asleep.

7/15 Mile 1952-1975

 

I woke up around 6am today and quietly dropped my tent while stepping over and around my two new friends. They woke briefly and said good bye. I think they are staying an extra day. I’m sure we will meet again in Ventura.

I decided to switch to my new shoes this morning. My old ones have been worn smooth. Put on my new shoes, relieving me of another 4 pounds of pack weight.

Had some climbing to do today. First to get out of Elk Lake, then some more on the trail. First 5 miles were exposed burny areas. It was early and it seems the temperatures are beginning to moderate. Overall a pretty easy morning hike.

Looking back at Elk Lake

The terrain began to change from all forest to a mix of forest / alpine meadows. Each clearing I got a peek at the surrounding mountains, AKA the Sisters. It was spectacular…. Here was the first clear view

Hello Sister

This opened up into a huge alpine walk with occassional forays into the forest. Had to take another crappy selfie. To the right is the South Sister (I think). Shortly after that I stopped for water at a stream and ran into two gals who were doing their annual girls-go-hiking-for-a-week thing. Their packs looked so heavy. While I was filtering out some water they kept asking me questions about stuff. Do you have rain gear? How much does sleeping bag weigh? etc. It is kind of nice to have my equipment mostly dialed in right now.

Another Selfie Attempt

The Devil is At Work Here
Left to right, Husband, Middle Sister, South Sister

So up here in sister-ville, we have the North, Middle, and South Sister. Then sitting off to the left we have “The Husband”. Not sure what’s going on with this family.

Wish I there was a geologist around to explain some of what I’m seeing. There were some huge lava flows around those craters. Mountains of the stuff. Earth Poo. I’m curious why there are so many craters next to each other.

Continuing on, I walked through the obsidian limited use area. Cool water fall, but I only snapped a passing photo.  The bugs owned this spot.

Obsidian Falls

While watering up at the falls, I spoke with an Old-timer who told me the next 15 miles would be on/off lava rocks, with a crescendo of a 5 mile stretch with almost no break. Got that to look forward to tomorrow. I setup at the first tent site outside the limited use area and crashed. It’s a nice spot. No mosquitoes today, great scenery, and 23 miles + 1.5 from Elk Resort.