All posts by John Baum

8/13 Mile 2519-2544

I left a few minutes ahead of Dog Bite this morning and headed up the 500 ft climb to Fire Creek Pass.  The pass is at about 6,300 ft.     
Ready for Today’s Activities

Once I hit the top, I stopped to eat a little breakfast and dry out my ground sheet.  It got soaked last night from the grass.   Dog Bite shows up shortly after and I get a hero shot of him on the pass.  
Dog Bite
Next up is a 4k descent to the Suiattle River at 2,300 feet.   Shortly below the pass is Mica lake.  A pretty little alpine lake.   Wish I would have camped here last night.  

Heading down is a long drop through a million short switchbacks.  As I lose altitude, the terrain changes from rocky, alpine meadows to overgrown, muddy, wrecked trail spiced with lots of fallen trees.   The biting flies are back to munch on my ankles. 
 
Climb This
It is hot and getting hotter the lower I go.   Mosquitoes join the biting fly party.   I try to time my slaps so I can squish both a fly or two and a mosquito in one slap.  Bug parts smear my hands while I’m stumbling through the now invisible trail.   All the while, I’m hearing the increasing roar of the Suiattle getting closer.  I can also here the low thump of boulders being rolled downstream.  There better be a bridge over this water….   Once I’m near the river, the trail turns west and follows it for 3 miles.
   
Apparently, the old PCT route had us fording the river.   Now it is routed to add 6 miles taking us to a bridge.   I found out a few days later that two guys decided to cut that route short and did the ford.   They said it was terrifying.   
Walking along the river, I’m in a old growth forest filled with huge trees.  Alice is furiously sending me messages on my inReach that I’m “off trail”  She must be looking at the old route…you know the one where you try to cross the river and die.   After a few exchanges we have that settled and I carry on.
      

 
This next photo captures just how old the forest is.   Take a look at these trees.  They are over 6 feet in diameter.   I spot a couple that look like Treebeard.   
The Ents Live Here
Dog Bite catches up when I reach the bridge.   He tells me it had been washed out and rebuilt recently.   Wish I’d taken a video of the river when I crossed.   it is a churning mess.  I can both see and hear the boulders getting shoved down the channel.   Can’t imagine fording this beast.  

 

The highlight of the day starts with this sign

And ends with a with a satisfying trip to my forest throne. 
Enjoying Nature
Dog bite is going to call it a day and is looking for a camp site.  I decide to press on for a couple more miles.   I want to be setup for the climb tomorrow.   I reach my target site around 8:30pm in the fading light.   There is another tent here with a gal in it.   I say hi, setup, cook some dinner, and crash before 10.  Another 25 miler.    

8/12 Mile 2494-2519

Today I rolled out of the tent early, determined not to repeat my late start yesterday.  At least get out by 7.   Strapped up I said a few words to some local backpackers when I saw a guy approaching with his pack on.  Since I’m ready to get on the trail, I need to assess whether to let him pass or take off ahead of him.  
Did my usual thru-hiker assessment of this young man.   Tall, in good shape, color coordinated expensive outdoor clothing.  His pack is an expensive ultra-light brand, grossly over packed.  He smells like a bouquet of flowers.  Conclusion: A daisy…. Me first.
I cut him off on the the trail intersection, say something like “good morning” and never see him again.   I sometimes talk to other thru-hikers about these encounters.   Most of us do the same thing in one way or another.   Usually only takes a glance to identify a thru-hiker.   If you are still not sure then take a sniff. 
 

A few miles North of Lake Sally I ran into a big trail maintenance crew.   About a dozen kids around 20 years old or less.   They were all hanging out next to the trail clowning around and playing grab-ass.   The funny thing is about 20 minute later I met this gal about my age working on a ledge next to a stream.   She is muscling around a 300 pound rock using a 5 foot metal bar as a lever.   I stop for a few minutes and chat.   I suggest maybe getting a few kids to do this.   “Naw”, she says, “I prefer to work alone.” 
Patches told me last night he was headed to Fire Creek, about 25 miles away.   Sounds good to me.  It is time to ramp up my pace.  

Smoke is back and it is going to be another hot/humid day.   Legs are hiking, miles flowing, bugs are bugging, the earbuds are rocking.   Punk music.   That is the theme for today.  I’m passing a bunch of weekenders in groups going southbound.  This must be a popular section for the fancy Seattle people.
  
Stopped at 10 and decided to choke down my least favorite Mountain House meal of all time…the dreaded Breakfast Skillet.   

On the surface it seems like a hearty backcountry breakfast.   Hash browns, sausage, eggs, onions, etc.  After rehydrating, the hearty breakfast dream turns into a mash of soupy potato and onion strings with 1/2 inch cubes of partially rehydrated egg product floating on top.   Said another way, imagine having the family over for a big traditional breakfast.   Afterwards, all the plates are scraped into a bowl, add a little dish water, then drop some crunchy scrambled egg cubes on top.   After each bite, I had to pause to suppress a gag reflex. 
The morning was mostly light climbing around 5k altitude.   Lot of meadows and ridge walking here, so the views were pretty good, although truncated by a smoky haze.

 

   
Next was a 1k decent into a river valley with 3 sizeable creek crossings.  These are being fed by the glaciers above and have a strong current.   First was a nice bridge, then a busted, but serviceable bridge, and finally…uh…no bridge.    

Easy
Serviceable
Log crossing.  No bark, slick, wet from all the water spray.  My kryptonite.   I wish someone was there to video my terror.   First I tried to take a couple steps out to test my balance, then instead of focusing on the log, I look at the churning water and start to lose my balance.   I take a couple steps back to my starting point with my heart racing.   Next I try sitting on the log and sliding, but my feet are dangling too low and will get pulled by the water.   I stand back on up on the rocks and think about it.   Somewhere between, “There must be a better way” and “Get it over with”, I find myself rapidly walking across this log to the other side.  I live to fight another day.
 
The rest of the day is spent climbing over gigantic fallen trees, crashing through overgrown and washed out trail, stumbling over roots and rocks I cannot see, and several more tricky creek crossings.
That’s a Big’un
Didn’t take many pics in the afternoon, since all you’d see is some plant hitting me in the face.  Made it across Fire Creek around 8:00 with dry feet.   Major was here with his buddy Raccoon.  Raccoon likes to be tidy, washing all his hiking clothes at every stop.  He is busy doing his routine.   We chatted for a bit about how shitty the trail was today and our log crossing terror stories.  The guys tell me that Patches stopped a few miles back, so he’s not showing today. 
View from my Tent
I find out that another tent on the hill contains Dog Bite.  I head up there and have a short chat with him.   He’s pretty happy to see me.   Tells me he is staying a couple days at Stehekin for his 65th birthday.   I figure we will be lapping each other tomorrow.  
Got my 25 miler in today. 

8/11 Mile 2475-2494

The other guys took off early this morning.  I got a late start of 8AM.   With the goal today of ~20 miles there is no need to rush.  Snapped a pic of the site before I left. 
Camp Site at Lake Janus
Although today is a low mileage day, there is going to be a ton of climbs and descents.   5k total.  The sky was clear and there were plenty of open areas to take in the view of nearby mountains. 

 

 

This morning I rediscovered why I should get up earlier in the morning.   It was 80+ degrees by 10:00 which normally would not be a problem.  100% humidity is.  I was covered in sweat regardless of how much I dialed back my pace.   Just one of those days.   By mid-day I had a nice outline of salt forming on my shirt that followed the straps of my pack.   The Salty hat was also earning another growth ring.
   
Spent most of the late morning / early afternoon trying to find a lunch spot that met my criteria: No bugs and shade.   Spent a couple hours finding one.  Finally I crossed some scree and found a hole to crawl into beneath a big bolder.  Got to take what I can get.
 
Seating for One
Lunch View
Made it to Lake Sally Ann around 6. 
Hello, Sally
There are hikers all around here.  Couple of nice ladies were setup right next to the lake and all spread out for a long stay.     Found Major setup in a nice single spot looking all comfortable.  He just got back from a swim in the lake.   Patches had arrived a few minutes before and setup on the North side.   I found my spot near him and setup.   
It turns out that the good state of Washington has dug a nice pit toilet here and put a wooden box on top with a lid.   I give it a try.   While taking care of my business I had a 180 view of the valley and the trail leading up.   Saw a couple hikers on their way up.   They got a nice view of me on the toilet.   Everybody wins. 
Since I got into camp a little earlier than usual, I decided to do something with my collection of huckleberries stored in an empty Gatorade bottle.  I boiled up half-liter of water, dropped my berries in there, then furiously poked and smashed them all up with a spork.   After a couple more reheats and stirs, poured the mash back into my Gatorade bottle.   Yum.   If I had a sugar packet or two this mix would be over-the-top delicious. 
 
Got to sleep early.  Sally treats her guests well.  

August 10, Mile 2465-2475

Spent most of the morning uploading my blog updates.   The WiFi at this hotel is not that great.   I hear it only gets worse as I push further North.   Walked down to the highway and caught a hitch without much trouble. 
The gal giving me a ride just graduated from college and will be working for Google in about a month.   She was hiking the Washington PCT section when she got a foot  injury.   She is now doing supply runs for friends while recovering.   When we arrived at Steven’s Pass her car got swarmed by 3 hikers looking for a ride.   One of them was my buddy McGriddle who I last saw at the Washington Alpine hostel.   Somehow 3 stinky hikers + their packs squished into her old Corolla and she drove off.
   
Back on the Trail
First hour or two on the trail after a town is usually pleasant.   The trail is wide and well maintained.   After walking a bit, my biting fly friends showed up.   Always nice to see old friends. 

Not a whole lot of views.   Just kind of stuck in the forest.  I figured I could get 10 in today and decided to check out the camp sites at Janus Lake.  There were a bunch of sites around the here.   At the first one, I saw a couple tents and went in to say hello.   Turns out one of them contains my buddy Patches !    He and a hiker named Major are camping here tonight.  
Lake Valhalla
Patches is apparently made of tougher stuff than me.   He was a couple days behind me at Stevens Pass.  He hiked through all the rain and kept going through Stevens Pass without taking a town break.   Patches is a little bummed about all the elevation changes.   He says is pace has been much slower.    I totally agree.   Washington is not going to make the last miles easy. 
We catch up on some folks we both know while picking huckleberries..   Patches thinks Dog Bite is eather slightly ahead or slightly behind us.   Niko was in Skykomish the same time I was, but must have been camping and I never saw him.  We agree to aim for Lake Sally Ann tomorrow. 
While we were chatting some lady shows up.   She talks to us from a distance and seems skittish about joining our site.  Patches suggests she head 100ft down a side trail next to us which would give here a huge flat area to herself.  She mumbles something, then sets up her tent in some lumpy grass and surrounded by bushes.   Patches and I are laughing about it later, she is going to wake up to a wet tent and a sore back.  New backpackers are so easy to spot. 
Camp Site my Lake Janus

8/7 2415-2438

 

Woke up in the morning to this

It is Ugly Out There

And went back to sleep. Slept on/off until 8, really not wanting to go outside. Laying there in my mostly dry warm spot, I was dreading it. The rain was non-stop and seem to be mixed with a little hail. The temp was now 40 degrees and it didn’t look like it was letting up today.

Decided to spend another 30 minutes heating up oatmeal and some spuds. This was going to be my only decent meal today. Got to thinking about my plight. As always, the answer is the same. Get up and start walking.

So I packed everything I could inside the tent, put on everything I had to keep me warm, and slipped on those wonderfully cold and soggy shoes. Jumped out and snapped a pic with my soon to be too-wet-to-use phone.

Bailing Out

By the time my tent was broken down and stowed away, I was freezing my ass off. First thing I did was hike like a madman until I got warmed up. Then things started to look up.

Ran into Workhorse and Chai walking ahead of me. We wound up hiking together for a few hours at a decent pace. Got to learn a bunch of new stuff about them. Wonderful folks. Today they started at 5 AM from the lake and had passed my tent while I was inside feeling sorry for myself.

As the morning wore on, the trail began to turn into a series of little creeks. Some spots were really muddy and full of slick roots. Somewhere along the way Workhorse took a tumble.
We got him up and situated, walked for a bit and he took another tumble. Then another. The tread on his shoes were shot and he was getting no traction. As the day wore on his pace became slower and slower, mixed in with stumbles and occassional falls. I moved to the back and decided to stay there until I felt we were in a safer spot.

I have to give that guy a ton of credit. He was cold and hurting, but just kept plugging away. Eventually the pace got so slow that I felt like I was barely moving. I felt like I might be spooking him a little so I stopped and harvested huckleberries at various intervals. During one of those intervals I ran into my favorite cousins Papa and John. Those guys just crack me up. Always showing up when I’m in a huckleberry bush.

Distractions

We catch up for a bit and they go ahead of me. I hang with Workhorse and Chai until we get into better weather and within 3 miles of the end. We are now in the ski resort area and the trail just switchbacks down. They decide to take a long, much needed break. I hang for a bit, but I can feel the shivers coming on. They are dressed a little better than me for the weather. They encourage me to take off and I do, practically running up the hill to get warm.

The last miles end without much incident. I’m getting signal on my phone and out of the blue a facetime call from my uncle. We have a nice chat as the phone gets covered in mist and the camera’s picture gets all fuzzy.

Glad this Segment is Almost Over

I see the buildings for the resort and find a shortcut down. Finally out of most of the rain, I head to the parking lot to sort out where to hitch hike. Some ladies in the parking lot feel sorry for me and give me a bag of fritos and a snickers bar. No room in their car for me.

I munched on the offerings while thumbing a ride along the highway. Just as I finish the snickers bar, a weekend hiker pulls up and offers me a ride. So I got a meal and a ride. The hike ends on a positive note.

Checked into the Cascadia Inn at Skykomish. Had some beer, ate a big fired chicken dinner, hung out with the cousins and two of their relatives who came to visit. I’m drying out and feeling much happier.