I have my Linux laptop from my bounce box and spent a bunch of time updating this site. It is nice to have a decent computer rather than my hokey phone / kindle combo. One of the problems that comes with this is that I have to deal with the post office.
First day was laundry, food, drying, and posting. I’m in a crappy spot for a hiker b/c businesses are all scattered around this area. Probably should have stayed at the hostel. Snagged some leftovers from a hiker box and bought various cravings. Katie S. posted on facebook that I don’t have enough protein in my diet, so I added a Slim Jim 🙂
Today (as I’m writing this) is finding some fuel for my stove and bouncing my laptop ahead. I feeling I need one more recovery day on the muscles. Was chatting with Joe (brother-in-law / PCT hiker wannabe) and mentioned that my plan is to get sick of being here. As of this morning I think I have succeeded.
Found a dude to drive me around today and drop me on the trail tomorrow at 6am. Another 100 miler to Wrightwood and water is going to be a little hard to find. Back to packing 4+ liters again.
It was freaking cold last night. We were camped at 7.6k feet, but the temps still dropped to 20 or maybe lower. My tent was setup on 2 inches of snow and my inflatable pad was not giving me the insulation love I expected.
I had read a few months ago about a guy who brought 2 pads into the sierras so he could insulate on cold days. As an afterthought, I brought a second pad thinking I’d just use it for laying around on lunch and ditch it at some point. Well, that second pad sure saved the night for me. My bag was definitely at its limits that night.
When I rolled out of the tent, one of the guys had started a fire. It was a blessing. All of us were huddled around it. We’d warm up, run to break up our tents, run back to warm up again. Kind of comical.
I couldn’t find Phd and I was sick of carrying his stuff. Bottom said to chuck it in the fire. Phd is kind of a douche anyway so why not? It made a nice burst of flame. Some of the folks were frowning at me. Probably LNT ‘ers…but hey… there was no trace left after the burn.
Hooked up with Zack, Austin, and Dan for the 10 miles to Hwy 18 where we hoped to get a ride. Zack and Austin hiked my speed. Dan was much faster, but his phone and GPS batteries were dead, so he needed us.
Along the way, Zack starts going on and on about a Sizzler in Big Bear. He is building this thing up like heaven on earth. Unlimited salad bar, gigantic steaks, multi-trip deserts. Pretty soon that was all we could think about.
We made hwy 18 at 12 and stood around for 20 minutes trying to thumb a ride. Plenty of cars go by, but no love. Zack decides to get on the other side of road and do some dancing. That didn’t work either. Probably the opposite on hindsight.
Finally some creepy dude stops and offers a ride. Only 3 would fit and Dan offered to stay, but I took the bullet instead. We agreed to meet at Sizzler. Turns out I got the W on this one, as my ride shortly thereafter took me to the parking lot ahead of them.
Sizzler was INCREDIBLE. It is hard to describe the joy we found there. Sitting in a corner charging our stuff and grazing for 2 hours.
I was the first to bail because I needed to get to the post office. It was supposed to be .4 miles away. Walked there and it had moved to shopping center. Walked to the shopping center, stood in a long line only to find that the one I needed was 3 miles away. Or maybe the package went to Big Bear LAKE instead of Big Bear CITY in which case it is 2 miles in the opposite direction.
What a bummer. Well, turns out some super nice lady in line offered to give me a ride to BOTH ! She drove me around for an hour with her two teenage boys and a dog in the back who all totally hated me by the end of the trip.
Went to the first office, stood in line for 10 minutes…no package. Next one, took 15 minutes. The old postal dude shuffles around back for who knows how long and finally returns with my unicorn wrapped laptop! This lady doesnt stop there. She actually drives me to an inn and makes sure I get a room. Her boys were shooting lasers at me from the back seat.
Did a 10 miles, ate a Sizzler extravaganza, had a free chauffeur, and got a room with a hot tub for $40/night (PCT Special). All is good. Zero tomorrow.
Just some weak rain last night, guess the first part of the storm petered out. Packed up the tent, had breakfast, and joked around with Dan, Bottom, and Blackfoot. Phd untangled his tent from mine and others, said a few words then left.
Bottom and I were getting ready to clear out when we noticed that Phd left his hat and pack towel. That guy keeps dropping stuff. Yesterday he lost a trekking pole. Few days before it was something else. Bottom was ranting that he was not going to carry another guy’s #%@@#! stuff again. Apparently this kind of thing keeps happening to him. I said fine and packed Phd’s crap.
Plan today was to do hard miles, get through the burned area, over the 8k passes, and down to a campsite at Deer Springs (256.1). 17 miles and a lot of vertical feet. Storm was supposed to be coming in which had all of us a little nervous.
I took off alone and started up.
Blackfoot passed me after a few miles, then I found him rolling a blunt on a pass. Chatted for a while with him and a couple new faces Tim and Sharon from Orange county. Didn’t see any of them again after that.
Then the sky became angry. The dark clouds started rolling in.
Stopped and put on my rain jacket, gloves and a buff. Hiked for a bit then the sleet started falling around mile 245.
This is where the layering story gets interesting. I kept a vigorous pace through the storm, but the temp kept dropping and my feet were getting cold. I pulled over and put on some long johns under my shorts and went back at it. Soon my feet were warmed up, but my fingers were now freezing. Hmm. Pulled over again and put on my puff jacket under the rain jacket. Hiking again, my hands started to get warm. As long as I was moving I was in perfect balance. Not to hot, not too cold.
Around this time and Australian guy and I were lapping one another. He didn’t say much, except that it was “hailing” and the snow sucks. He had on shorts and no gloves. Didn’t see him after he passed me for the third time. Perhaps I mistook his body for a snow covered rock.
The sleet turned to snow and it fell for the rest of the day. However, I was having one of the best days of the trip. I wasn’t cold, everything was super quiet, and nobody was around. I counted 3 maybe 4 passes each over 8.3k. I only used 4 liters of water on the whole trip. Compared to the desert, this was heaven.
I had some interesting flashbacks to my childhood here. Growing up in Indiana, I’d often head out to the woods to help my Dad cut wood, fix a fence, or whatever during the winter months. Many times it was in conditions just like this…. A couple inches of wet snow on the ground, sticks and leaves poking through. Funny I’ve never had a reason to be in this kind of environment since moving to California. I’ve only wanted to see snow if I can ski it.
Trail was easy to follow so the whole segment was groovy. So quiet.
Coming down to the lower elevations around 4, the snow let up a bit. Started running into some trail magic posters
This one should have been awesome, but my hiker-trash brethren had cleaned out all the sodas, chips, and left me with some nasty snacks called “Minees” which totally suck. There were 3 flats of the things still in the box…guess others agree.
Last couple miles were a little trickier. The snow stopped, but the accumulation was higher. It was hard to judge where the rocks were. I picked through it and got to mile 256 around 6 where everyone was setup. Nobody was milling around, they were all snuggled in their bags. Only folks who greeted me were the Swiss couple. They seem well adapted to this stuff.
Last night Bottom was talking about the no-camping boundary in the San Bernadino’s that started around Mile 238. So most of us are making a goal of hiking to the boundary today, camping, then hitting the high country.
I headed out early with Bottom who promptly left me behind. The snowy bit in this picture below is were we are heading over the next 2 days.
Since I was out early, several fast hikers passed me on the way up. Here is Guo (?) a hiker from Taiwan passing me.
Today I was passed by a German, a dude from Taiwan, Tree from China, Sophia from France, a Swiss couple, and a couple Americans. There were some other smelly fellows from who-knows-where as well. I’m like 3rd string on the Olympics team out here 🙂
The good news is that the trail crosses Mission Creek a dozen times and the water is flowing good. On hindsight, I probably should have reduced my water carry.
Each time the trail crossed the Creek, the terrain got green and marshy. In one of those marshy spots the trail seem to split. I couldn’t figure out which one to take and all the foliage prevented a GPS fix. So I guessed…wrong. Walked 10 minutes around in the marsh until the trail turned to nothing. Standing in 3 inches of soggy whatever I managed to finally get a fix on the trail which was 30 feet away up 10 foot shear sandy wall. Got a few scratches climbing that one.
Early afternoon I caught up with most of the folks ahead of me finishing lunch at another stream crossing. They took off and I chilled for a while. Tree and Sophia showed up as I was packing so it was my turn to leave someone behind.
Hit the San Bernadino boundary shortly after.
Thought this picture was important. Some kind of super Yucca that folks were talking about in camp that night.
Made camp at mile 238.6. The whole crew was here. The camp site was for 2 maybe 3 tents, but all 8 of us crowded in. Then the fun began.
First was Guo cowboy camping when the forecast said rain was coming. He was laying in his sleeping bag and Bottom starts giving him shit about getting wet soon. Turns out that Sunshine has some kind of mega tarp tent with some extra room, so he moved under the big-top. Funny, a guy who speaks little English moves in with a gal who speaks little to anyone.
Next was a dude that Bottom, Dan and I have talked to but never got his name. He is a little snooty. Said he was going to study for his Phd in Cambridge after the hike…we just call him Phd. Anyway, Phd thought it too windy and crowded, so he sets up next to the creek in an obvious flood area…and a storm is coming in. He must have heard us laughing about it, because an hour later his tarp shows up practically on top of me.
Woke at the break of dawn. Jared, Samson, and I were planning to hike together, so we all broke camp at about the same time. Saw a couple hikers go by while we were packing up. Everyone at our camp site was still snug in their bags when we left.
We were starting at mile 201.6 heading toward the faucet at 205.7. All of us were low/out of water. I had maybe .5 liter when we started.
We arrived at the 205.7’s faucet completely dry. There was quite the party there. Found Quark and Towanda there filling up, some British gal named Hot Diggity, and a couple of other gals turned up while we were there. Turns out that I passed Quark/Towanda last night.
Folks were milling around filtering, but I just loaded up and left on my own. The sun was rising and I was pretty sure crossing the wash before/after I-10 was going to be harsh. Quark said we had to cross hell to get to heaven (San Bernardino Mountains). Better get this over with.
As I was coming down a short paved road to the gate at mile 206.8, some gal in a Land Rover saw me coming and stopped. She waited there for a few minutes while I walked up, jumped out, and handed me an Odwalla smoothie! Don’t know what it was, just green and cold. I downed it in 15 seconds. She was headed into work, so this must have been her breakfast. I was super grateful.
Followed the road, then was at the palm desert floor. The trail was solid for a bit so I was making good progress. Here is a picture from around 208 looking back toward San Jacinto Peak (around 10k feet I think). I was hiking just below that peak yesterday.
The suck really began when the trail dropped into a wash (as I expected). For those unfamiliar with the desert, a wash is a dry desert riverbed that sees occasionally big floods. When it floods, it becomes a nasty brown churning mess. Then it quickly dries into deep sand misery. While I was walking I calculated that I lost 1.5 inches on each step sliding backward. Sorry no pics of this segment. Go look at your kid’s sandbox to get an image.
Got to the I-10 overpass (209.5) and found a guy named Quarters sitting amongst some trail magic. Quark and Towanda showed up around the same time. The big find was some cold cans of Natural Light and bananas. Turns out that even hell has a beer !
Quark, Towanda, and I left together. Fun hiking with them, but the fun could only last so long. Towanda was in the lead again as usual, which means I lose.
Gradual climb started. Goal was to get to the Mesa wind farm maintenance shop where there would hopefully be some water. It was getting super hot. Must have been low 90’s by then.
Ran into Q and T sitting under a tiny bush about .5 miles from the shop. They looked so sad with their 3 feet of shade, poor things. Convinced them to carry on for a bit more. Turned out to be the right call….when I got to the crossing there was a sign that said “Tacos” !!! Was so psyched I practically ran there arriving around 12.
Folks in the shop opened up their kitchen room to us and were making carnitas with all the fixins in air conditioned awesomeness. Gatorade and bottled water was flowing as well as sodas. I dropped a $20 in the donation jar. This was heaven.
Bunch of hikers were already there and others came streaming in. We all congregated outside in a little grassy area under a tree napping. I was too comfortable to get up, but I did take a blind picture over my head. Expand this image by 3x and you’ll get the idea.
Left around 3 with the goal of the hitting the Whitewater Preserve at 218.5. Only 5 miles, how hard could that be? Well it turns out to be some really hard miles. The first segment was a 1k foot climb in 90 F heat. Going was unusually slow for me. Here is a pic looking back. You can see a gal named Sam climbing slowly up.
Rest of the hike had some nice high-desert type scenery, but I didn’t take many pics.
Arrived at Whitewater Preserve around 6. Crossed this bridge
Then got lost and wondered amongst the rocks for a while
Finally made it to camp and setup with a bunch of folks I hadn’t met before. There is this German dude here named “Bottom” who is just funny as hell. Some of his funniest stores are finding stuff on the trail and trying to get it back to people. Also met a nice young Swiss couple that I *think* were last seen at Warner springs (109).