Not much going on today.   I had another resupply box here.   Going to reload for the hike to Kennedy Meadows North.    Should be a 5 day trip.   These are easy to plan. 

 

Today it is a short 11 mile hike down to Toulome’s general store.    Plan is to get a burger then hitch somehow to Mammoth for a zero.  

The walk down Lyell canyon is an easy one.   Almost flat, slightly downhill.    I got ahead of Soho early on and poured on the speed.   Kept running into JMT’ers, mostly southbound and full of questions I didn’t feel like answering.  

Passed 3 groups of northbounders who were finishing up.   Kind of hard getting around them, their packs are so big (heh).    Struck up a couple of nice conversations while walking, but these folks didn’t seem as motivated as me to get that burger.

About 2 miles from Toulome, ran into yet another ranger who wanted to see my permit.   Yosemite is a police state. 

Rolled into Toulome Meadows a little before 12.   The exact route that took 3.5 days last time with Stephanie and her friends took only 27 hours at the PCT hiker pace which was about 15 hours of hiking.    It is an interesting contrast.   Totally different style of hiking.   At least  14.5  of those hours was spent looking at the ground instead of the scenery.  

Soho showed up a bit later and we had burgers and beer.   Spent another hour chatting with other JMT’ers who were picking up resupply boxes, lunching before going back on trail, etc.    Not sure why you need to resupply after only 20 miles of walking from the Yosemite start.

This is the labor day weekend and there is a ton of automobile traffic on the 120.    We figured a hitch would be simple.   Turns out it was impossible to get anyone to stop.    We stood out there with our thumbs out for over an hour.    Hundreds of cars passed us and not a single one stopped.    Stupid Los Angeles city people.   The looks of fear they gave us would have been funny if I wasn’t getting so hot standing there. 

Soho and I got so discouraged that we walked back to the store so we could thumb it in relays while the other drank beer.    We decided anyone in a nice car was a bad bet.   We needed a beat-up ride driven by some local.    Sure enough we see 15 year old dented and calico colored Subaru signal us.    It pulls into the parking lot and out pops Tito a tall white guy with foot-long dreadlocks.  

Tito is a late 20’s rock climbing junkie who works a seasonal job with Yosemite.    Super nice guy originally from Michigan or Wisconsin, can’t remember exactly.    Turns out he is heading down the Lee Vining to pick up a package, then to Mammoth to do some grocery shopping for a birthday party he is throwing for a “friend-who-is-a-girl”.   He seems to be very specific about the distinction.

 

He moves some of his rock climbing stuff around and we wedge our packs in the back.   I make some foot space from the pile of cans and bottles on the floor of the passenger seat, then climb in.   Soho takes the back seat.   On the way down, Tito explains that he has ordered some new minimalist shoes and, because he finds Yosemite’s postal service to be unreliable, he is having it shipped to a coffee shop in Lee Vining.    We arrive there and hop out since he is clearly going to be socializing for a while with all the employees.  

Soho and I mill around then decide to enter and order some coffee.   Who is behind the counter?  Carrie.    The same gal who is dating Trent, the guy riding his horse up the PCT and last seen at Burnie guest ranch, at least 400 PCT miles North of here.   This is some freaky stuff.   We chat with her while Tito learns that his shoes were returned by the local post master because, according to him, she is a hater.   This sends him into a long tirade about having to contact the vendor via email, finding the tracking number, blah, blah.    Poor Tito just doesn’t like the modern world.

Eventually we load up and head to Mammoth.   When he is pulling up to my condo, we talk a bit about winter job last year.   He was helping with snow removal for a “guy who manages houses for rich people”.   Turns out that guy is Jeff…..the dude who cleans and checks out our condo.   Sure is a small world here on the Eastern side of the Sierras.

 

We got the first bus to Agnew and were on the trail by 8.   Soho stopped to help a group of hikers with a similar pack as his get strapped in.   One guy had his ultralight pack loaded to the gills and his waist belt loose so all the weight was on his shoulders.  He kept telling them to cinch the waist belt tighter and lift the pack above the hip bone.   He told me later that they kept ignoring his advice so he just left.    

This route is special to me.   I took my daughter, her two friends, Steve, and Joe on this exact route many years ago.   We took 4 days to get to Toulome meadows.   I figure it will take me about a day and a half this time.   

Lots of marshy ground on this hike.   At least the wild flowers were out.   It was much prettier this time around. 

Got above Thousand Island lake and took a pic.   This was our first campsite during my daughter’s hike. 

I think we camped around here on the second night. 

I found a Marmot doing his thing next to the trail.  Soho calls them Sierra Ground Hogs.    I don’t think that would be a good brand name.  I mean, I have a Marmot pullover and Marmot sleeping bag back home.  Who would want to buy a Sierra Ground Hog bag?   I decided to bug this one.  Mess’in with the Marmot

Then it was up and over the pass.   

 

Coming down from the pass a Yosemite Ranger girl asked me for my pass.   It is the first time anyone has checked it in 5 months.   Seems that Yosemite area rangers are the only ones that care.   Then she asked about my bear can.   Yes, miss ranger, I have your stupid bear can.   I almost gave her my suggestion that we should exchange the 2.5 pound bear can for a 2.5 pound rifle.   That would be a more permanent solution to the bear problem.   I think my opinions would have fell flat.   Thing is the only bear I’ve seen on the trail was next to a dumpster.  In fact, I can look out my window at Mammoth and see a bear going through the dumpster just about every night.   There are supposedly 40,000 bears running around in these mountains.   According to a lady in Mammoth, there are 41 tagged “nuisance” bears in Mammoth.   Just shoot those and the bear “problem” goes away.   How’s that for an opinion?   

Ok, so now that I’ve bummed everyone out about my bear theory, here is our camp site.   My food is securely stored in my lead lined bear can except the stuff that can’t fit which is under my pillow….so suck it. 

Did 17 miles and 4k of elevation today.   Tomorrow I’m jamming into Toulome to catch a ride to Mammoth for a Zero. 

 

We crowded in with a bunch of JMT’ers last night.   Most were milling around when I got up at 6:30.   I ate something, collapsed my tent, packed and got on the trail a little after 7 with Soho.   The rest of them were still in various states of getting ready.   

The trail was super easy today.   I felt like I was back in Oregon.   Gradual descents and ascents.   Wide trail.  I was able to motor on this one.    Of course fast trail usually means crappy pics, so here are some of the highway. 

Rolled into Red’s meadow in time for lunch.   Got my milkshake with some extra whip cream.   Hell ya.  

Soho needs to get a package from the post office in mammoth and it will not be open by the time we get to our scheduled Mammoth stop at Toulome Meadows.   So we came up with a hybid plan.   He will take the bus in early and get his package.   I’ll hike to Agnew Meadows and catch a later bus.   We’ll stay at my condo there, then get on the trail from Agnew. 

Met a few hikers we knew at Reds meadow.   I was in a hurry so I just handed my business card to one of them and told them to give me a call if they wanted to stay in town for the night.   Poor JMT’ers.  One gal thought I was creeping on them.   They just don’t understand…yet.   Never turn down an act of kindness on the trail.   Anyway, they didn’t call so whatever.

I’m very anal about walking every inch of the PCT.   Soho doesn’t seem to care about what he skips.   To each his own I suppose.   Anyway, I jammed to Agnew.

I like all the easy crossings for the touristy folks.   Much easier than rock hopping and balancing on logs in the mud.  

Got to the bus stop at 4:30 and laid on the ground until it showed up at 5.    

 Did 21 miles today.   This is a pace I can fee happy about!

 

The VVR folks have this system down.   The ferry leaves after breakfast.   So they make another $20/head off folks milling around eating and chatting.   I settled my tab for a whopping $260.   Honey buns, showers, steak dinners, beers all add up.

I checked out the remnants of last nights party around the fire pit.   There was an empty scotch bottle laying next to the pit, empty and half empty beer bottles scattered around.   All the evidence points to a bunch of hung-over hikers walking around this morning.

The horn sounded and everyone rushed out to the beach to board the High Sierra assault craft.  

A few folks looked a little green from last nights party, but most seemed to be in high spirits.   Unfortunately our captain spent 15 minutes circling around looking at some bird nest in the trees and two big birds flying around.   Never figured out what they were.   I oooh’d and aaah’d with everyone else, but frankly I just wanted to get on the trail.   Once we landed I strapped and took off.

Today is going to be a miserable climb from ~8k to 10.7k over 6 miles.   I had not even finished the 1 mile route from the ferry landing before it started raining.    Put on the rain jacket, pack cover, and kept moving.  

While climbing in the rain, I met several groups of JMT’ers coming down.   They were in various states of dress.   One had a trash bag on, which I admired.   Another father, mother, daughter combo had  three had gigantic, hooded, neon onezies on over their clothes and packs.   They looked like telatubbies.   I mentioned it to the Dad had he laughed.  Said he got a great deal on the rain suits.   His kid looked devastated.   I should have got a pic. 

Rain cleared out after a few hours and I hung the gear on my pack to dry.   The climb was relentless. 

I liked this little waterfall.   Took a pic mid crossing. 

The pass is up here somewhere. 

FInally made it to the top around 3.   I suppose this rates as a nice view. 

The route down had some rock scramble to it, then it smoothed out. 

Lower down there was bridge crossing over fish creek.   I took a small Video

Although I don’t get credit for another pass, trail turned into another 2k climb to get to Virginia lake at about 10.5k.   Nice lake.

Before descending to Purple Lake, I got my first look at the smoke from Yosemite.   

I arrived at sundown at the campsite.   Soho was already setup….he loves those climbs.   I’m exhausted and a little irritable.   It was a long day with almost 5k of climbing for a measly 15 miles.   Getting sick of this pass shit.  When do I get some flat ground?